In recent years, rap songs have become "new nobles" in the fashion world.

Is Cardi B sitting side by side with Anna Wintour? It was this seemingly impossible fashion event seating arrangement that allowed the fashion industry to whisper, and American designer Wang Wangren (Alexander Wang) released the 2018 autumn/winter collection at the site of the Condé Nast office of the New York Times Square in February this year. At that time, this arrangement was made. After all, the seat next to the queen of the fashion industry is usually filled by other magazine editors, CEOs of the fashion industry, Hollywood stars, and even royals.

Although Wang Daren himself has long been a fan of hip-hop culture, placing Cardi B in the front row of his press conference alone would indicate that the broader fashion industry’s position on hip hop music has changed. The 25-year-old rap singer who was born and raised in Bronx, New York, won the 2017 Billboard list with her single "Bodak Yellow." In December last year, hip hop music surpassed rock music and became the most popular music genre in the United States.

“For this generation, and for the next generation, it is important for them to see people who can inspire and inspire themselves, because fashion is not the exclusive product of the elite,” is known for its musical style. Rap singer A$AP Rocky said, “Fashion belongs to everyone. Some people think that you want to rule out, but the more you find them, the more you want to include.”

Both A$AP Rocky and A$AP Mob’s other members of Calvin Klein’s #MyCalvins’s latest ad, Gucci “respects” Daniel Day (aka Dapper Dan) with his 2018 holiday series (again accusing it as “cultural misappropriation”. ”), or in January 2018 Dior Homme invited Futures, Big Sean, Metro Boomin and other hip hop singers to participate in Kris van Assche’s final series. The major fashion brands realized that hip-hop culture began to replace Hollywood as the most influential global entertainment culture. The torrent of force.

In the past two years, more than a dozen luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, and Marc Jacobs have been targeting the hip hop artists in the commercials. Versace and JW Anderson have gone further, with 2 Chainz and A$AP Rocky. Hip-hop artists collaborate on products.

But things have not always been so smooth. For decades, hip-hop has been considered the brand's “poison” for major fashion houses, and the latter always bypasses the growing street culture. In 1982, Dapper Dan opened his own boutique in Harlem, New York. He was soon sued by Fendi. He used a lot of Fendi brand design and sold it to many influential rappers, athletes, and street fritters. But it does not make Fendi’s team of lawyers feel interesting. After a round of attacks and lawsuits, Dapper Dan's shop eventually closed in 1992.

“I was often attacked early,” Day recalls. “They think I infringed brand equity, but I was just sending out my own declaration. The boundaries between cultural appropriation and aesthetic creation are very vague. You can always argue. Not stop."

Now, in a lot of social media screaming that Gucci was plagiarizing Day's 1989 jacket design in the 2018 holiday series, rather than the brand's "tribute," the Italian superbrand worked with Day to launch custom and limited-edition products. It will be sold at Gucci's upcoming Harlem stores in New York. “A sign of a change of times!” Day sighed at a Twitter post that announced that boutiques will open in January 2018.

But in addition to cooperating with Day, Gucci also invited A$AP Rocky, Childish Gambino and other rappers to participate in the fashion press conference. The brand's apparel was also worn by rappers such as Migos and 2 Chainz. Gucci succeeded in capturing luxury young consumption. The heart of the person.

Undoubtedly, hip-hop is a powerful tool for Gen Y and Generation Z. According to Bain, these young consumers will account for 45% of global luxury consumption by 2025.

Kris van Assche, who was recently named Berluti's creative director, had previously worked as a creative director at Dior Homme for 11 years. He said: "This way, you can reach children who are usually not interested in high-end fashion or cut suits. "He himself also modeled hip-hop artists, including A$AP Rocky, Big Sean and Future (these rappers are also often invited to the front row of the Dior Homme show). He also said, "This is one of the ways to send information to them."

“Hip-hop is becoming a premier music genre. Hip hop artists are becoming narrators and journalists of the times. This proves that hip-hop artists are driving cultural development,” he said. He has enjoyed popular rap with Kendrick Lamar, Lil Yachty, and 21 Savage. Aleali May, a singer-based stylist and fashion consultant, said, “Fashion is more concerned with consumers than ever before,” she added. “The old way of thinking was kicked out. To attract the next generation, you have to Analyze what drives consumer purchases."

Calvin Klein #MyCalvins 2017 campaign | Source: Courtesy

“Like Kanye West [the rapper], they use completely different perspectives and are more open. Their biggest advantage is understanding how to communicate with young audiences and how to trigger the reaction of young audiences – at this point, fashionistas Almost nothing has been touched yet,” said David Fischer, founder and CEO of Street Youth Culture magazine Highsnobiety, who often works with hip hop artists such as Gucci Mane, Joey Badass, and Cam'ron to provide brand content for fashion brands.

However, the "Millennium mentality" is gradually leading the entire society and changing the purchasing habits handed down from generation to generation - focusing on hip hop is not just to cater to young people. From teenagers who have long lined up to purchase the latest Supreme products, to traditional luxury customers, to designers themselves, Kanye West, Drake, Travis Scott are resonating with the larger crowd. In fact, according to the Nielsen Music Industry Research (Nielsen Music), hip-hop music consumption now accounts for a quarter of the US music market, and 8 of the most popular 10 artists are from hip hop.

“Hip hop has always been an important presence, both in my life and in the creative process,” said Wang Daren, who has long attracted a number of hip-hop singers, including Travis Scott, Vic Mensa and A$AP Ferg. - Wang Daren also often invites hip-hop artists in brand advertisements. "With the development and evolution of hip-hop, it will touch every aspect of today's society and various forms of culture. I will continue to draw inspiration from it."

Content creation aimed at continuously infusing nourishment into the most important social media is also the key to understanding this phenomenon. "What I want to say is that 90% of my artists have their own creative directors, photography and editorial teams. That's where the recipe lies," said Tammy Brook, founder and CEO of the brand strategy agency FYI Brand Group, which has spent the past 17 years. Both have a close relationship with a wide range of cultural characters, including rappers.

But like any dialogue, it is not just the fashion industry that unilaterally shows off hip-hop culture. Rappers have also changed their position on the fashion industry because the freedom of hip-hop culture is also the key to change. “Hip hop became mainstream even though it was earlier, but it has only recently become more inclusive – the past was very exclusive and very manly,” said Fischer. “Now, you can see 'queer' (Queer), female rappers, this market is no longer as gay as the past, and many hip-hop artists have embraced fashion.”

For a long time, rappers like to use designer fashion as a status symbol, whether it is wearing on the body or writing into the lyrics. Closely related, including Migos Versace, Lil Pump Gucci Gang, Jay-Z Tom Ford. However, with the continuous outbreak of influence, they began to realize the importance of personal style of dress. For example, A$AP Rocky released the hit single “Fashion Killa” (meaning “fashion killer”) in 2013. The song not only addressed fashion giants such as Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, but also paid tribute to Ann Demeulemeester, Visvim and others. Known designer. “I appreciate the fashion designers in Japan and Belgium because their perspectives, designs and tailoring methods are very advanced and unique. They gave me a lot of inspiration,” said A$AP Rocky.

“This is the beginning of cooperation,” Matthew Henson said. He started working with A$AP Rocky in his fashion company AWGE from 2013. “Some artists’ opinions are unique and established, which helps the brand’s overall development and Creativity regenerates. Designers are always inspired by music, art and social movements, so if they are in tune with specific musicians, cooperation is natural.”

Similar to fashion brands leveraging hip hop, rappers also use their influence to build personal brands. But all of this requires sincerity, Brook said. “The rap singer needs to establish a foothold in the fashion industry. The first thing to do is to love fashion. It's not possible. You must understand fashion and become part of your culture and community.”

"The second thing is to put them and people like Anna Wintour, Carine Roitfeld, and Kim Jones under the 'one roof' (simultaneously at conferences, dinners, parties, etc.) to help them improve their fashion reputation and become The industry’s focus is on,” she said. “When you are in the same place, you have to establish a direct connection. If you can really connect with the designer, it is more likely to appear in the brand's advertising,” the brand strategist emphasized. Travis Scott has been working with Saint Laurent and Helmut Lang, Big Sean and Dior Homme, Pusha T and Adidas, etc. "While all of this happens naturally, you will need to form a team to dynamically sync to the world on social media. ”

A$AP Rocky is the best example of this development track. A few years ago, after attending Dior Homme's press conference several times, he appeared in Dior Homme's 2016 Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer 2017 blockbusters. "This is the key, we didn't specifically find them," Van Assche talks about Rocky. He said that the latter’s extensive fashion knowledge, unique personal style, and taste all made him deeply impressed. “The relationships we have built make these hip-hop artists a clear choice for us. This must include such personal connections. of."

Regarding the influence of hip-hop culture in the fashion industry, Fischer said, “This is a new reality. [rappers] will become the most influential brand in the future. If you want to keep your fashion brand in touch with young audiences, you You have to accept this reality as an important part of your strategy for advancement,” he paused briefly before making this reminder: “The consumer’s sense of smell is acute, if some behavior is considered marketing Means, it will not work."

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